What is Dobby Fabric? Weave, Uses, Properties

You may have heard about dobby fabric, but what if someone were to ask you what is dobby fabric. Would you have an answer? Our guide will discuss everything about the dobby fabric, how it is made, its unique weaving, applications, and advantages.

What is Dobby Fabric – Introduction

The dobby fabric refers to a woven fabric that is produced on a specific dobby loom using a technique that dates back to the 1840s. Although the fabric is woven through a loom, as in other types of weaving, it needs a piece of special equipment to attach to the loom called a dobby. This dobby device allows for the production of prints that are woven into the fabric.

The technique is done by manipulating the yarns present in the fabric. The weaver raises and lowers the vertical threads (warps) individually. This results in a small and distinctive geometric pattern formed on the fabric.

A dobby loom relies on yarns of different colors to ensure that the designs and patterns are more noticeable. This offers a suitable alternative to printing fabric after weaving. Designs from a dobby loom tend to be repeated, frequent, and all-over patterned.

What is Dobby Fabric – Fibers?

The dobby fabric relies on a different variety of fibers such as silk, cotton, and nylon. As a result, the fabric can be produced in varying weights, colors, and patterns. Sometimes, the warp colors or the weft threads can be alike or different, which enhances the subtle fabric texture. A commonly recognized dobby fabric is pique which is widely used in making polo shirts.

What is Dobby Fabric – Weaving?

When weaving using fine yarns, the fabric gets a slightly raised weave. The resulting weave is an ideal choice for making a shirt or a dress, especially when looking to get a better texture, unlike a simple and plain weave. Therefore, dobby fabrics are a common choice for checkered and striped shirts. It is ideal for these clothes because the pattern and texture tend to be complementary.

Types of Weaving

There are numerous patterns of weaving that produce different fabrics. To better understand dobby fabric, let us look at these weaving patterns:

Plain Weave

Plain weave is the simplest form of weaving which features durability and cheap manufacturing costs. To come up with a plain weave, every filling alternates moving over and under the weft yarn. The results of this process are similar to a checkerboard.

Twill Weave

This weaving method is among the most common in textile processing. It features diagonal line patterns, which make the pattern easily recognizable. Twill weave is created by alternately moving the weft yarn over and under various warp yarns. It is commonly used in the production of solid fabrics like denim and gabardine.

Dobby Weave

Dobby weave involves small designs, which can be geometrical or floral that are repeatedly woven on the fabric. The dobby fabric comes about due to a combination of basic weaves through a dobby attachment. The weaving pattern is primarily controlled by a plastic tape that has punched holes to control how high or how low the warp yarns go. On average, it uses as many as 32 harnesses.

Satin Weave

Satin is a popular weave because of its elegant and silky appearance. The weave has a minimum of four weft yarns hovering on one weft yarn. In some cases, it is one weft yarn that hovers over more than four weft yarns. Satin weave is primarily used in making evening dresses, bridal grown, and ballet slippers, to mention a few.

What is Dobby Fabric – Dobby Weave Appearance and Structure

The dobby weave is similar to jacquard weaving allowing different shapes on the fabric. Generally, dobby weave produces simple, minimalistic designs which take little time and effort to create. As a result, its weaving style does not get intricate or complicated.

Dobby weave structure depends on how you manipulate the warp thread. How the thread is pulled will determine the geometric shape or design. While one can come up with numerous designs using dobby wave, it is a tedious and time-consuming process.

What is Dobby Fabric - Characteristics

The characteristics of the dobby weave are easy to identify compared to many other weaving styles.

• TEXTURE - You will get more and better texture than you can get from a plain weave.
• PRICE - Dobby fabric can be sold at a somewhat lower price because its production process is relatively easy. Thus, it does not cost much because the dobby weave creates small and simple geometric designs.
• DRAPE - Dobby has a good fabric drape. Therefore, it is more stretchy, versatile, and flexible.
• CARE - Lastly, it is resistant to creasing and thus, makes laundry an easy process.

Circular Knit vs Dobby Fabric

The main difference between the two types of weaves is the texture and thickness. A circular knit style is light and is commonly used for making T-shirts. On the other hand, the dobby style offers a thicker texture, though there are some instances where it can be lightweight. However, even when it is lightweight, it remains heavier compared to the circular knit style.

Dobby vs. Jacquard

The two primary looms in the market are dobby and jacquard. So, how do they compare? The difference between the two looms is how the vertical warp yarns move as the horizontal yarn passes through. How the warp yarn moves up and down as the weft yarn passes is what creates forth a pattern.

• Warp and Weft

When it comes to a dobby loom, the warp yarn is only controlled in groups. Therefore, as a harness moves up or down, all the warps move along with it. A dobby loom is ideal for simple patterns due to the harness's limitation. On the other hand, a jacquard loom (named after jacquard, the inventor) allows the movement of individual warp yarns. Thus, it allows for the formation of a more intricate and complicated wearing pattern.

How to Tell Dobby from other Fabrics

How do you tell if a particular weave is a dobby? Dobby fabric features distinguishing characteristics. One of its unique characteristics is the geometric shapes that one can weave into the fabric using the dobby weave. Therefore, the weaving from dobby fabric allows for innovation and creativity compared to anything else.

What is Dobby Fabric – Its Advantages

When using dobby fabric, you enjoy:

• A classic touch of texture- a dobby fabric offers numerous geometric patterns during weaving. Thus, the different weaving styles add texture to the dobby fabric, just like in twill.
• Stylish look- shirts made from dobby weaves are solidly stylish, as they offer some depth to the colors- for example, versatile light blue.
• Thicker weave- because dobby weaves have a textured nature, they have a thicker fabric which gives the shirt a relatively heavy feel.

What is Dobby Fabric – Its Uses?

While most people enjoy the creativity, innovativeness, and versatility that comes with this fabric, it has its limits. It has limits when it comes to its applications. Therefore, currently, the weave style has limited uses, but there is always room for expansion like with everything else.

Fabric designers use dobby fabric to make;

• Polo shirts
• Shirts
• Dresses
• Blouses
• Outerwear
• Handbags
• Clothing apparel

What is Dobby Fabric – Properties?

Dobby fabric has the following properties;

• Flexible
• Cost-friendly to produce
• Uses different colors
• Resistant to creasing
• versatile
• Small geometric patterns
• Slight stretch
• More texture compared to fabrics made from plain weaves
• There are numerous patterns that can be made from the fabric
• Less complex compared to jacquard fabrics
• Good drape

When is the Best Time to Wear Dobby Fabric? – Summer or Winter?

Dobby fabric is more ideal for wearing during cold weather, despite being blended with natural fiber. It has a good feel, but there is more to consider during the cold season than the color trends.

What is Dobby Fabric – In Conclusion

The dobby fabric uses a dobby weave style that seamlessly blends in with numerous weave styles. So, if you are looking for an exciting sewing project, you can try using the dobby fabric. Our guide on what is dobby fabric offers you all the information you need on dobby fabric, its weaving, uses, and advantages.

More Weaves

• Fabric Weaves
• Plain Weave
• Twill Weave
• Herringbone Weave
• Satin Weave
• Basket Weave
• Tapestry Weave