How to Use a Zipper Foot – For Best Results
A zipper foot is a sewing machine presser foot designed to stitch closely beside zipper teeth, piping, and raised edges. The narrow shape of the foot allows the sewing machine needle to sew accurately near bulky edges without sewing over them. Zipper feet are commonly used for centered zippers, lapped zippers, piping, cording, and decorative edge sewing. This tutorial will show you how to use a zipper foot, as well as several other useful applications.
What is a Zipper Foot?
The sewing zipper foot enables the sewing machine needle to stitch close to the raised edge of the zipper. It can be attached to the machine’s presser foot holder and has the added advantage of being able to attach to the right or the left side. In addition to sewing zippers, the zipper foot can be used to create and sew piping and cording.Â
Read the full sewing machine presser foot guide to learn about more feet to make sewing easier and faster.
I find adjustable zipper feet especially useful for sewing piping because they allow more control over how closely the stitching sits beside the cord. The foot on the left is from my modern Janome, and the one on the right is from my mother’s older Singer machine. The attachment may vary from a snap-on to a screw-on version depending on your machine’s specifications. Check your sewing machine manual for the correct zipper foot to sew regular zippers.
How to Use a Zipper Foot (Step by Step)
Start by looking at the zipper and where you plan to place it on your garment. Will you have an opening in the middle of the seam and a center placement, or will the zipper seam be lapping over to the left or the right? Before you start using the sewing zipper foot, decide on the different options that suit your garment.
1. Attach the Zipper Foot
Most zipper feet either snap onto the presser foot holder or attach with a screw depending on the sewing machine model. Before sewing, slowly turn the handwheel to check that the needle clears the foot safely.
1. Baste the Seam
Mark the length of the zip on the fabric. Stitch your seam (regular stitch length) up to the point where the zipper will start (black stitching). Baste (long stitch length) the rest of the seam where the zipper will be with a long stitch length (red stitching).
Finish the seam allowances. Press the seam allowances open.
2. Stitch the Zipper
Close the top of the zipper. On the wrong side of the fabric, place the zipper teeth centered under the basted stitching line. This means the right side of the zipper is against the open seam.
The zipper stop will be where the basting ends and the top of the zipper will be at the top raw edge. Pin or baste in place.
Attach the sewing machine zipper foot to the machine. Set your machine to a regular straight stitch on the left side of the foot. This would normally be with the middle needle position. Follow the machine instructions for your particular brand of machine. Lower the zipper foot.
With the right side of the fabric facing up, stitch along the zipper opening down to the bottom. Pivot the needle and stitch across the end of the zipper.
Make several back and forth stitches with the machine to form a bar at the end of the zipper to act as a stopper. Return to the other side and repeat sewing.
3. Unpick the Basting
Both sides should be stitched now. Using a seam ripper, remove the basting stitches from the center seam line down the zip opening.
4. Remove the Zipper Foot
Remove the zipper foot and replace it with your all-pupose sewing foot to sew the rest of the item.
Using a Zipper Foot for Other Purposes
Here is how a zipper foot helps sew different styles of zippers:
Invisible Zippers
This zipper is hidden in the seam and appears to be invisible. The only part of this zipper that should be visible is the pull at the top. The zipper foot helps the machine sew close to the edge and conceal the zipper. You can sew an invisible zip with a standard zipper foot or purchase invisible zipper feet that have a groove in the bottom to go over the teeth. Read my full tutorial on how to sew an invisible zipper.
Zipper Foot vs Invisible Zipper Foot:
A standard zipper foot is designed for regular zipper insertion and piping, while an invisible zipper foot contains grooves underneath that guide invisible zipper coils.
| Zipper Foot | Invisible Zipper Foot |
|---|---|
| Regular zippers | Invisible zippers |
| Flat underside | Grooved underside |
| Suitable for piping | Designed for concealed zips |
| General zipper sewing | Precise invisible zipper sewing |
Lapped Zipper
The zipper foot enables one side of the zipper to be stitched close to the zipper while the opposite and wider side laps over. Having a zipper foot makes the lapped zipper easier to sew, resulting in a neatly stitched side.
Fly Front Zipper
The fly front zipper has a fly front facing and can be a little tricky. The zipper foot gives a neat edge and helps with careful stitching to create a really smart-looking fly.
Common Zipper Foot Mistakes and Tips
Basting the zipper in place first helps create straighter, more even stitching. I find sewing slowly near bulky zipper stops gives better control and prevents the needle from shifting too close to the zipper teeth. Testing the needle position manually before sewing also helps prevent broken needles.
Using the wrong needle position or sewing too closely to the zipper teeth can cause uneven stitching and broken needles. Testing the zipper placement before sewing helps improve accuracy.
| Common Mistake | Tip |
|---|---|
| Needle hitting zipper teeth | Move needle position |
| Crooked zipper | Baste first |
| Uneven stitching | Sew slowly |
| Broken needle | Test needle clearance |
| Bulky zipper ends | Handwheel slowly |
More About the Sewing Machine Zipper Foot
Zippers are used for a wide range of items, including bags, sports gear, jackets and pants, and all kinds of camping and outdoor wear. The zipper, sewn correctly, is a force to be reckoned with.
The zipper foot allows the machine needle to sew neatly and close to the edge. After using a zipper foot, you will never want to sew in a zipper without one. Many sewers want to avoid inserting a zipper. However, with a zipper foot, they may well change their minds. The zipper foot set correctly will stop you from sewing over the teeth of the zipper.
Different Types of Zipper Feet
Here are some of the features of different types of zipper feet.
- STANDARD ZIPPER FOOT – These are normally supplied with most machines and have a narrow central ‘toe’ with cutouts on either side that can stitch very close to the zipper mechanism. This allows you to use a central needle position.
- ADJUSTABLE ZIPPER FOOT – These have an adjustable positioning to the left or to the right. They are particularly useful for topstitching and creating piping.
- INVISIBLE ZIPPER FOOT – Several makes of machine have an invisible zipper foot available. The invisible zipper foot has grooves underneath to guide the coils of the zipper as the stitching takes place.
What Else Can a Zipper Foot Do?
The zipper foot is a great help with sewing and making piping as it is able to get close to the edge of the piping and stitch neatly along the edge without sewing over it. The zipper foot is ideal for stitching cording and is often used in soft furnishings to add decorative inserts to cushions and chair covers.
How to Use a Zipper Foot for Piping:
Projects Using a Zipper Foot
Here are some sewing projects from the Treasurie blog that use a zipper foot.
- Zipper Pouch Tutorial
- Triangle Pouch Tutorial
- Dog Purse Tutorial
- How to Make a Gathered Skirt
- Zippered Cushion Tutorial
Zipper Foot FAQs
A zipper foot is standard equipment for most machines and they should come with one. If you need to purchase one, check your local dealer for your sewing machine’s brand of foot. Many other generic after-market feet can also work quite well.
Yes, it is best to use a zipper foot to sew a zipper. Without one, it is hard to sew close to the teeth of the zipper. A zipper foot will enable you to sew close to the teeth giving a clean professional look to your home sewing.
Invisible zippers can be sewn with a specialty invisible zipper foot with grooves underneath or a regular zipper foot. While you can sew slightly closer to the teeth with the specialty foot, you will still get good results with a regular zipper foot.
Yes. A zipper foot makes it much easier to sew closely beside zipper teeth and creates cleaner more professional-looking zipper stitching.
Pin for Later
How to Use a Zipper Foot – In Conclusion
A zipper foot is one of the most useful sewing machine feet for sewing zippers, piping, cording, and decorative edge stitching. Its narrow shape allows accurate sewing close to bulky edges and zipper teeth. Once you become comfortable adjusting the zipper foot position and needle placement, it becomes much easier to sew neat professional-looking zippers and trims.
More Tutorials
- How to Shorten a Zipper
- How to Sew a Zipper
- Types of Zipper
- How to Sew an Exposed Zipper
- How to Cover Zipper Ends
- How to Fix a Zipper
- Sewing a Zipper Pocket
Author - Luisa Clare
Luisa Clare is the founder of Treasurie, a sewing and crochet education platform offering step-by-step tutorials and printable patterns. With over 15 years of experience in dressmaking, pattern design, crochet, and craft education, she specialises in teaching beginners through clear, easy-to-follow lessons. Her tutorials and patterns are used by home sewists and crocheters worldwide to build practical skills and confidence. Learn more about Luisa and Treasurie.
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